Corndogs + Avocados

I know, it’s taking me forever to get through this. You teachers out there know that May is just impossible. It sort of feels like a flat-out gallop to the finish line. But this evening I have a few wonderful hours of leisure.

We took a motorcoach from Avignon to Nice, our last “base of operations.”

We entered the town from the west along the coast, hotels and restaurants on the left, the Promenade des Anglais, a wonderful paved walkway dotted with benches, on the right in between us and the Mediterranean. There is a long strip of pebbly beaches between the Promenade and the water. Although there is no visible division between each beach on the sand, big blue signs stand up along the Promenade alerting passersby to the name of each beach. One of the first signs reads “Forum Beach.” Our courier (sort of a tour leader) explained over the microphone at this point that at each beach you can rent a mistress.

“I’m sorry?”

The courier repeated herself, “you know, a mistress. You pay money and use a mistress for the afternoon on the beach. It is much more comfortable than laying on the rocks. A mistress!”

“Do you mean matress?”

“Oh yes yes, a matress!”

Those scandalous Frenchies.

After dropping our bags at the hotel we walked over to the Cours Saleya, the famous street in Vieux Nice (Old Nice) normally filled to the brim with the daily flower market. On Mondays, however, you can find fine antiques and important whatnot, like silver ostrich teapots.

Late afternoon the tents came down, the chairs and outside heaters came out, and diners descended on the street en masse.

We spent the next hour or two wandering the narrow cobbled streets of Vieux Nice stopping in cafes and shops.

I love the statues that line part of of the Place Masséna, the town’s main square. They change color every few seconds.

That night ratatouille was on the menu, a most marvelous way to eat your veggies, and I munched the most delicious meringue for dessert.

The next day we had several field trips, the first to Eze, home of the Fragonard Perfume factory. I’m usually not into perfume, but I totally recommend going here and taking the tour. Finally the difference between perfume, eau de parfum and eau de all the rest demystified!

A little quiz to test your nose.

Many wonderful things to buy. Our guide through the factory explained the process and a number of the scents before having us sniff at them. It was amazing.

And, girl, you know these legs belong to our guide!

Then off to Monaco. Not too shabby an aquarium, eh?

We saw the tomb of Grace Kelly -

- and the changing of the guard.

The most scenic defibrillator I’ve ever laid eyes on.

I feel so bad for the people here who have such little boats.

Now, if you are ever in Nice or Monaco, and you have a few hours, you MUST GO TO Villefranche for a lazy lunch. It lies between Nice and Monaco. Here is a view from the bus as we rumbled past in the morning.

The adults ate at this wonderful place, Beluga. The students walked a minute down the beach, grabbed some sandwiches and lounged in the sun.

Back in Nice that evening we ate dinner together and then had a couple of hours before we all had to be back at the hotel with lights out. I strolled down the Promenade again and snapped these shots.

Over in Old Nice and at the very end of Cours Saleya I enjoyed the rest of my night outside nibbling at a crepe, sipping on hot chocolate and listening to a sultry jazz trio lull us all into that pleasant zen-state that only an upright bass and buttery voice can do. That night more than at any moment I missed Darin like crazy.

Happy Mother’s Day Martha and Pudge. We love you.

Here are some ways to donate to the current disaster relief effort in Myanmar:

• LDS Church Humanitarian Services
• Google

I suspect the death toll will rise dramatically when representatives from more relief agencies are finally allowed into the country. Several news sites are now reporting the death toll could top 100,000 people. For current information on the unraveling crisis visit these news outlets.

Please consider making a donation.

The TGV took us at around 135 miles per hour south from Paris to Avignon through vineyards and olive orchards. From there we explored a bit of Provence.

The next morning was Easter Sunday. We attended mass at the surprisingly understated Notre Dame des Doms cathedral next to the Palais des Papes inside old walled Avignon . It’s a beautiful church built in the 12th century. During the politically and religiously turbulent years around the 14th century, the popes took up the French’s offer for a safe place to live and moved to Avignon.

Today at school I asked one of the religion teachers if he could shed some light on why a series of popes and antipopes lived for over 100 years in France instead of Rome. “Ah, that was a colorful page in history.” Sadly, he didn’t clear much up.

I love the angels.

The music of the mass was wonderfully medieval. A pipe organ welcomed in the worshipers and set the tone. An older gentleman with a rich baritone voice led the congregation and the small choir in song after song. I bungled along as best I could by reading the lyrics printed in French on our program.

This video is from right before the mass started. It’s really bad because I was trying to be discreet. Oh well, you get the idea.

Luckily, I had read John 20 the night before so I was able to follow the priest’s homily (nearly dictated the story from scriptures). Any time I understand what someone is saying in French I get really excited.

Shots of the Palace of the Popes next to the church.

After mass we had some free time. Most shopped. I spent my time on some of my favorite activities, eating pastries and sipping fruit juice and reading. Wahoo! The lovely chocolatey thing below was called “Success”. Amen.

The place I ate is on the left with the red awning. This view is looking down Rue St. Agricol.

A courtyard off the beaten path.

I did succumb to the shopping bug, however, when I saw the soap. Well, when I smelled the soap.

Off to the Pont du Gard, an aqueduct built by the Romans in the first century AD.

Graffiti.

Wandered the area around the aqueduct. Flowers were just starting to bloom.

Even though it was a little cold and windy, folks were out in force picnicking and playing. It was wonderful.

One man band video coming as soon as I can figure out why it isn’t working.

But more wonderful than that was the organic (”biologique”) goat cheese I bought there. I was going to eat it with some bread later in the evening but instead devoured it alone in the bus on our way to Nimes.

In Nimes we toured the amphitheater (I recommend the audio tour), the Tour Magne at the top of the fabulous garden (Jardins de la Fontaine), and the Maison Carrée.

No dogs allowed.

(Tour Magne.)

(Maison Carrée)

Old Avignon at sunset.

The next day we had a few hours in Aix en Provence wandering, site-seeing and eating. Then off to Nice. That will be the last France Trip installment as soon as I can get to it.